河海大学海岸动力学试卷海岸答案

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1、1>higher-orderStokeswavethcories>conidialwavetheor>solitan^wavetheory2、rctlcction.diffraction3、Jetties,groins,breakwaterswaves4、wavesetdown,wavesetup5、frequencyspectrunudirectionaldistributionfunction6、Height.theirdirectionoftravela、1、Thewacvelocity,thephasevelo

2、cityorspeed(c)・Thewacvelocity,thephasevelocityorspeedcistheratethataparticularphaseofmotionminesalongthroughthemediumorIheratechatawaecrestmovesthroughihewater.I(canbecalculatedbydividing(hewavelengthbythewaveperiod.Itisthespeedofanindividualwave・cLT=k.—•、1、波速，相

3、速度或速度是一个特定的相在介质中移动的速率或水中波峰移动的速率。它可以通过波长比周期进行计算。2、Deepwater—forawaterdepthlargerthanhalfthewavelengthsh>1/2厶thephasespeedofthewavesishardlyinfluencedbydepth・Ihisisthecaseformostwindwavesontheseaandtheoceansurface・Intermediatedepth—torwaterdepth120L

4、ter—forawaterdepthsmallerthanthewavelengthdiidedby20,h

5、ratedbyflattroughs.Thiswaveshoalingcommencesatthedepthwherethewavesfeelthebottom.Thisdepthisaboutone-halfthedeep-waterwavelength.2、深水一一水深大于波长的一半，即/?>-,波的相速度很难被水深影响。深水情况2适用于很多由于海」:的风在海面引起的风浪；有限水深——水深厶

6、加直到波列由被平缓的波谷分隔的尖的波峰组成。(上一句冇点拗Uooo)我觉得后面的没丿IJ,不翻译了。Obliquelyincidentwaterwaveclimateandnearshorebathymetryarcresponsibleforthewave-inducedlongshorecurrents.Whenwavesbreakatanangle(o(hebeach,(hemomentumofthebreakingwavegeneratesonshorecurrentsthatflowinthedirectiono

7、fpixjpagationofthebreakingwaeanditsbore.Thepileupofwaleralongtheshoreresultinthegenerationoflongshorecurrentsthatflowparalleltothebeachinsidethebreakerzone.Longshorecurrentsmayflowinonedirectionalongtheshorebetweenthebreakersandtheshore.Thelongshorecurrentissiron

8、ges(whenthewaxesarehighandapproachingatagreateranglefromtheperpendiculartoshore・Ihehighestvelocitiesinalongshorecurrentaretypicallynearthewatersurfacean